How To Customize Jewelry | What Has Gone Through The Birth Of A Piece Of Jewelry?

The first. Communication design

After the initial communication, the designer will provide customers with simple line drafts in several directions. After the customer selects or proposes amendments, then use this as a blueprint for refinement and adjustment.

After determining the direction, the designer will consider various mosaic techniques, the color and cutting of the matching stone, and draw the hand-drawn drawing with watercolor 1:1 based on the online draft. In addition to showing the shape and structure of the hand-drawn drawings, the techniques and details of the inlay must also be presented so that the masters can make them according to the drawings.

Second, the starting version

There are two popular starting versions, one is the starting version design through 3D software:

(1) The 3D scanner scans the main stone to obtain precise size, facet distribution and 3D structure data.

(2) The pattern maker uses 3D software (JewelCAD is commonly used) to make models according to the design drawings.

(3) The designed 3D model is output to the 3D wax spray printer, and the wax plate can be made.

Although the computer can make wax models with high precision, the efficiency is greatly improved.However, in high-end jewelry customization, hand-carved wax has always been used to make wax plates. In the modeling of portraits, animals, flowers and plants, hand-carved wax also has an irreplaceable advantage. It is probably what people often say that hand-made things have a soul, and this is art at the fingertips.

In the process of hand-carving wax, it is also necessary to draw the matching stone position on the wax mold according to the design drawing, and then carve the stone position accordingly.Hand-carving wax is a very demanding art skill and requires patience and care. Therefore, the cost of hand-carving wax is higher than the computer version.

Three, casting

Regardless of whether it is a 3D version or a hand-carved wax, the wax model that comes out needs to be turned into a precious metal casting through the lost wax method.

(1) Planting wax trees

For small pieces like jewelry, we generally turn wax molds into metal castings in batches by planting wax trees.

The prepared wax model is welded layer by layer on the wax stick in a certain order, and finally a wax tree with a shape similar to a tree is obtained. When soldering, solder as much as possible, but do not let the wax patterns touch each other.

(2), plaster filling

Put the planted wax tree on the stainless steel tube together with the base plate, slowly pour the gypsum slurry, and then let it sit for 6-12 hours, and wait for the gypsum to solidify.

(3) Baked gypsum

Baking plaster molds are used for dewaxing, drying and casting to keep warm.

(4) Pouring liquid gold

After the plaster mold is dry, inject the melted golden water from the nozzle.

(5) Frying, washing and cleaning of plaster molds

After casting, the plaster mold is in a high temperature state. After taking it out, let it stand for a while, and then put it in cold water for frying and washing. The plaster will explode due to shrinkage. At this time, take out the golden tree, brush off the large pieces of gypsum, soak it in 30% hydrofluoric acid for 10 minutes, and then rinse it out to remove the remaining gypsum until the surface of the golden tree is clean.

(6) Take out the casting

(7) Cut castings

Cut the jewelry on the golden tree one by one and wait for the next step.

Fourth, hold the model

The mold-holding is done manually, using a special calender knife to push back and forth on the surface of the jewelry to modify and repair the defects of the workpiece, and initially polish the surface of the casting.

Five, with stone

According to the jewelry design drawings, the gems are sorted by hand, and the suitable colors, cuts, and sizes are picked out and ready for inlay.

Six. Setting gems 

The master setting master needs to set each diamond and gemstone manually. This is a technical job that needs to be performed under a magnifying glass of several tens of times.

Seven, polishing, electric gold

After the gem is inlaid, the metal surface and details need to be further polished. Some jewelry requires electro-gold treatment on the surface.

Eight, cleaning, quality inspection

The final inspection of the appearance, structure, and surface of the finished product is carried out. If it is unqualified, it will be returned to the previous process and re-made.