Inventory | Top 10 little-known classic jewelry designers

（Wolfers Frères）

Wolfs Freis was founded in 1834 by Louis Wolfers, a Belgian goldsmith. His son Philip joined the workshop in Brussels in 1875 to produce the original Rococo style design. However, in 1890, he began to accept the aesthetics of the Art Nouveau movement.

Between 1897 and 1905, Philip Wolfs' works were marked with the words "unique model" to distinguish them from Wolfs' works. Inspired by nature and Japanese art, he only created 131 unique works in the most elegant art nouveau style. In 1908, Philip stopped jewelry production and became a sculptor. His jewelry rarely appeared at auction and was sought after by collectors.

（Henri Vever）

Ernest Vever left his hometown of Meis in 1871 and founded a jewelry company in Paris. Three years later, his two sons Paul and Henry joined the company and began to produce Renaissance and Oriental style objects. With the heyday of the Art Nouveau movement in 1900, Vavo won the prize of the Paris World Expo for its jewelry made of flowers and animals in enamel and the application of gemstones.

In 1921, Warhol handed over his business to his nephew, decided to concentrate on collecting Japanese art, and wrote the three-volume "Paris Jewelry" (1906-1908), which is a valuable reference book about Japanese history.

（Paul-Emile Brandt）

Paul Emile Brandt was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, in 1883. After moving to Paris at the beginning of the 20th century, he started his own business and created jewelry in the new art style using various technologies in naturalistic design.

After the First World War, he turned to decorative art style. During this period, his jewelry and cigarette boxes have become one of the most demanding works in his auction. His decorative art design reflects the style of the 1920s with bright bold colors and geometric shapes. After the Second World War, Brandt stopped making jewelry and turned to tin. He died in Paris in 1952.

（Raymond Templier）

In 1885, Paul Templier inherited the leadership of the family business of his father Charles and uncle Louis, which was established in Paris in 1848. He later became an important figure in the jewelry industry in Paris and won this honor. Paul's son Raymond entered the company in 1919 and immediately decided to manufacture another style of jewelry, almost without decorative decorations. Inspired by the industrial world of modern cars and high-rise buildings, he used smooth and polished metal combined with black paint or enamel, and only used a small amount of diamonds or colored gemstones.

As the chief designer in the period of decorative art, Raymond Templey is also a founding member of the French Modern Artists Union, which also includes Charlotte Perian, Robert Malif Stevens, Erin Gray and Sonia Delaunay.

（Lacloche Frères）

Lacross Freres was founded in Madrid in 1875 by four brothers Fernand, Jules, Leopold and Jacques. In the 1920s and 1930s, they achieved great success and designed works decorated with multicolored enamel and carved gemstones inspired by the East.

At the 1925 Paris International Exhibition of Modern and Industrial Art, the aesthetic concept of decorative art was defined, and the jewelry works of Lacross Freres won the award of La Fontaine Fable. Lacroche was asked to make jewelry for Edward VII, Grace Kelly and Queen Victoria of Spain. Sadly, the company was forced to file for bankruptcy after the stock market crash in 1929. Jacques Lacklosh reopened in 1936 and continued to manufacture fashionable jewelry until the 1960s.

（Rubel Frères）

Rubel Freres is recognized as one of the best manufacturers of decorative art style jewelry, and has a connection with Van Cleopal. It is a Parisian manufacturing company, and also cooperates with other well-known companies in the square of Vendome in Paris.

Jean and Robert Rubel originally came from Budapest. They were both skilled jewelry designers. Their fame included two identical diamond and emerald cuffs, which were designed in 1928 and purchased by Daisy Fellows, the successor of Singh Sewing Machine brand, and the Egyptian Revival bracelet, which won the Grand Prix for Van Cleopal. The bracelet was created for the International Modern Industrial Art Exhibition held in Paris in 1925. Later, these brothers became famous for their "dancers" series. After moving the company to the United States in 1939, it was rumored that John Lubell got the inspiration of his first dancer brooch when he was at the Latino dance club in New York.

In 1943, the employment relationship between the brothers and Van Cleopal was terminated, and Jean Lubel opened a branch office in New York with his Americanized name, John Lubel. Later, regrettably, the branch opened branches in London and Paris, but because of the outbreak of World War II, their company also closed down.

（Suzanne Belperron）

Suzanne Beperon was born in the eastern part of France in 1900. She studied painting and jewelry as a child, and studied and worked under the guidance of her tutor Jeanne Bouvin. Since the decorative art period, she has pioneered a new method of carving crystals into perceptual shapes, and then inlaying these shapes in precious and semi-precious stones.

Susanna interprets the jewelry style of the Congolese tribe, the Fauvism architecture and the Japanese cherry blossom as the most advanced jewelry design, usually designed to show the personality of specific customers. Elsa Schiaparelli, a fashion innovator, is also very supportive of Susanna. Her clients also include members of the European royal family and celebrities from Hollywood.

Susanna is a person who emphasizes herself very much. She has never signed her works and insists that "my style is my signature". It was not until the 1980s, especially the jewelry auction owned by the Duchess of Windsor, including many of Belperon's works, that interest in her works was rekindled in the market.

（Pierre Sterlé）

After Sterley's father died during the First World War, Pierre Sterley was under the custody of the jeweler's uncle and taught him the working methods of jewelry trading. His design is highly recognized by customers, mainly because he imagines his jewelry as a painting on the lapel of a dress or jacket, and is famous for depicting birds and feathers.

Between the 1950s and 1970s, Strey was considered to be one of the best jewelry designers in France, using turquoise or amethyst and other gemstones as well as diamonds and gemstones to decorate jewelry. He soon won the loyal support of artists and wealthy customers from the haute couture of Faubourg Saint Honor é. In fact, Strey prefers to be called "jewelry designer" rather than jewelry manufacturer.

His outstanding achievements include the design of the crown of Queen Nariman, the wife of King Farouk of Egypt, and the production of jewelry for Begum Aga Khan and Maharani of Baroda. Pierre Strey has been operating independently until 1976, until Shangmei bought the stock and hired its founder as an art consultant.

（Donald Claflin）

Donald Kravlin, an American-born designer, first worked for David Webb and Van Cleopal, and then joined Tiffany in 1965. There, together with Jean Schlumberger, he paved the way for new high-end jewelry. Other designers soon realized this and began to imitate their design works.

Clavlin is most famous for his fantastic rendering of animals and mythological creatures. He also created a series of jewelry inspired by children's stories, such as Alice in Wonderland and Stuart Little.

After the great success of Tiffany, he became the main designer of Bulgari until his death in 1979.

（Aldo Cipullo）

Aldo Ciplo was born in Italy in 1936, and developed his own craft together with his father (a family jewelry manufacturer). After emigrating to the United States, David Webb and Tiffany hired him, and the two companies soon recognized his creativity.

Siplo's jewelry is inspired by the medieval goldsmith, whose hard stone, such as lapis lazuli or turquoise, is inlaid on the gold bracket. His works are bold and modern, and are adored by women in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1969, Siplo joined Cartier, New York, and was famous for designing "Love" bracelets and "Juste un Clou" series. He was the only designer in the company who was allowed to sign on Cartier jewelry. Siplo left Cartier in 1974 to return to the jewelry form he originally loved - clothing jewelry and men's jewelry, and finally died in 1984.

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