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Showfay jewelry cold knowledge

Feb 22, 2023


Paraiba crystal

Few people who play with crystal know that there is such a kind of crystal.

Palaiba crystal, also known as Medusa quartz.


Palaiba tourmaline ring

However, it has nothing to do with not only the Palaiba tourmaline, but also the Medusa in Greek mythology.



The crystal with dots inside is named "Palaiba crystal" because the color of the dots inside is like the Palaiba tourmaline.

At the same time, it is also called "Medusa crystal".

It is not named after the image in Greek mythology, but the bell form of jellyfish.




The shape of this jellyfish is named after the famous Gorgon, because its tentacles are similar to Medusa's snake hair.
The characteristic of Medusa quartz is that there is an inclusion of silalite which forms radial fibers inside.
So, these two names, one is about the color of the inclusion, and the other is about the shape of the inclusion.
Blue and heating of Hailanbao


The certificate of aquamarine rarely involves the optimization method of aquamarine - heating, which is often called "burning". Hailanbao usually improves the clarity and optimizes the color by heating. This treatment method is a conventional one, and almost all Aquamarine has been treated in this way, and the effect is stable and durable, and will not fade!



From Optical and crystal-chemical changes in aquamarines and yellow berries from Thanh Hoa province, Vietnam induced by heat treatment

This treatment method can remove the yellow tone and make the blue color of Hailanbao more pure and pure.

Blue of Topaz

The common natural topaz is colorless, yellow and pink, and the natural blue topaz is not many.




There are many blue topaz on the market. Their color is not natural, but acquired by "cosmetic surgery" the day after tomorrow.
In fact, it is obtained by irradiation (see the figure below).





Many people will worry, is this Topaz safe?
Such concerns are widespread.
Moreover, it is unnecessary.
Because this treatment technology is very mature. As early as 1980s, irradiation treatment of topaz has been a common technology. [2]
Topaz raw stone, after irradiation treatment, will be stored for several months or even years before further treatment.
 Therefore, no matter from the perspective of quality control or process, there is no need to worry.


Fading of Kunzite

Called "the stone of the dinner party", but has the secret of not seeing the light?! Spodumene is named after George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932), the Bole-gemologist of spodumene. It is Mr. Kunz, a gemologist of the Tiffany family, who has an eye for "treasure" and has ignited spodumene. The spodumene, morgan stone, Schaffrey and Tanzanite were all discovered and praised by Tiffany. The color of spodumene is very beautiful, mixing pink and lavender to form a bright pink purple.


Tiffany's stone bird brooch, spodumene


In addition, spodumene has a very strong tricolor property - on spodumene, you can see three different colors of purple, pink and orange from different angles, which is fantastic and mysterious.

Banquet

The spodumene has a very high nickname - "dinner stone". The best place to display spodumene is the dinner party. Under the light, the spodumene is changeable and mysterious. However, the most important reason is that spodumene is "invisible". The spodumene can't stay in a place with strong light for too long. Under high temperature and strong light, the color of spodumene will fade slowly. Undoubtedly, it will be a huge disaster. Although the color of spodumene can be enhanced by heating after irradiation, it is still the same as the natural color and will fade.



Fluorescence of pearl

The vast majority of people should react to the fluorescence of pearls.




However, what should be really worried about is that some pearls have no fluorescence effect at all!
The fluorescence of pearl is caused by both internal and external factors, not only the whitening operation of pearl processing!!!
Internal factor - manganese element (Mn), external factor - processing process.
internal cause
The water environment more or less contains Mn, and the content of Mn in fresh water is better.
In the picture below, the green is sea water and the blue is fresh water. The abscissa is the content of manganese element (unit: ppm).




The presence of Mn will produce fluorescence

Because it is not an academic paper, we will not talk about specific principles. Fluorescence spectrometry is a very mature application method for the determination of manganese in various materials. EDXRF, a special equipment for measuring elements, is also often used to measure manganese content.

Pearl classification cultured pearls and wild pearls are both natural pearls. Most of the pearls on the market are farmed. This is only discussed here, and the natural pearls are similar. Similar to wild rice and cultivated rice, they are naturally grown rice. The classification of pearls can be divided into two types according to whether they have nuclei or not: nuclear-free pearls - the most common freshwater pearls and the rare keshi pearls; There are nuclear pearls - Akoya, Australian white, Nanyang golden pearl, Tahiti pearl, and Edison pearl in fresh water.

Freshwater environment: The inner wall of freshwater pearls and mussels has accumulated relatively rich manganese. Moreover, freshwater pearls, layer by layer, are all pearly, which undoubtedly have obvious fluorescence reaction. Whether it is freshwater pearl (common freshwater pearl) or freshwater nucleated pearl (Tahiti pearl), there is fluorescence under ultraviolet/X-ray irradiation. Seawater environment: Seawater pearl (AKOYA pearl, Australian white, Nanyang golden pearl, Tahiti pearl). Their pearl nuclei are small balls ground from the shells of freshwater pearl mussels.



Professional workers implant these small balls into the corresponding mother shells.



In the mother shell, after the mother shell repeatedly "tried to wrap the foreign body", it was covered with layers of nacreous.



Next, you can see the fluorescence. Akoya pearl, the pearl layer is relatively thin, generally 0.35-0.7mm. The blue and white fluorescence of the pearl core can penetrate the pearl layer. Regardless of the subsequent processing process, a single untreated pearl, taken from the mother shell, will have fluorescence. Including non-white Akoya (such as natural real hemp, or natural Champagne Akoya), it will fluoresce.



Nanyang Golden Pearl, Australian White Pearl and Akoya are the same, but also have the contribution of pearl core. However, the pearl layer is relatively thick, and the fluorescence through the pearl layer is weak. The following picture shows the fluorescence reaction of Nanyang Jinzhu in my own live shot. The left is dyed, and the right is natural.



Nanyang Jinzhu and Aobai are sisters. Nanyang Jinzhu has (weak - no) fluorescence, and has the contribution of bead nucleus. Tahiti pearl, Nanyang golden pearl and Australian white are cousins. Their fluorescence is dark red and reddish brown. If it is green and so on, it can be basically determined that it has undergone some treatment that is not recognized in the industry. Routine operation of external pearl: cleaning, bleaching and polishing. [3] [4] Bleaching reagents have fluorescence, so pearls also have fluorescence. For Freshwater White Pearl, Akoya White Pearl and Australian White Pearl, it belongs to conventional optimization. This is an optimization method recognized in the industry. 99.99% of the white pearls on the market have been treated with this method, which is equivalent to makeup (while dyeing and irradiation are not recognized for pearls, not called optimization, but called "treatment", which is equivalent to cosmetic surgery).


The purity of gemstones is not the same. Everyone likes high purity gemstones. However, for different gemstones, the requirements for purity are not the same, or even, it can be said, the world is different. Some gemstones, such as topaz, aquamarine and morgan stone, usually have few contents and look clean to the naked eye.


Tiffany's double main stone ring: aquamarine+rupee tourmaline

Some gemstones usually contain many obvious impurities and inclusions, such as rupee tourmaline, palaiba tourmaline, emerald, etc.



According to the difference in cleanliness,
GIA classifies colored gemstones into three categories:



Class I is usually eye clean. When observed with the naked eye, the gem has no inclusions or defects on the whole. Type I gemstones with obvious contents are rarely used in jewelry, unless they can cover defects when inlaying.
Type II type II gem with a small amount of contents visible to the naked eye. Type II gemstones with a small amount of contents are usually used in jewelry and do not require absolute cleanliness.
Class III Class III gemstones almost always have inclusions. For Class III gemstones, even if the contents are very obvious, they are often used in jewelry. For example, emerald, watermelon tourmaline, rupee tourmaline, palaiba tourmaline.





Moreover, for the same family, different kinds of gemstones may be in different purity categories.
For example, the beryl family:
Emerald (III)
Red beryl (II)
Aquamarine (I), Morganite (I), Golden beryl (I).





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